Sunday, January 29, 2012

First few days, feel like a freshman again



I guess I’ll start my journal by introducing with a cliché greeting here in South Africa, Howzit?, which is pretty much equivalent to Wasssssup or how’s it going? Never traveling to a foreign country before, I had some of the wildest fantasies and misconceptions about people from different countries. In Cape Town, I imagined a city dominated by the white presence, with a somewhat small black middle class, but the majority of black people in the township areas – the enduring scars of apartheid. Also, I had imagined a bit more rigidity, mistrust, and general unfriendliness across racial lines, which only seemed normal given the enduring racism in America since the civil rights era. However, Cape Town is surprisingly cosmopolitan and it is difficult to sense any racism beyond witnessing the economic disparities. The country is 80% black, 10% coloured (mixed race), and 10% white, so the vast majority of people I have contact with are black.

Enough boring talk about the observations of a humanities major, but I just wanted to provide a general feel of what it’s like to be here (especially for those who think this is “Lion King” Africa or its polar opposite mini Britain). Speaking of humanities majors, apparently it is fairly common for these types to walk around town and to class barefoot, even in the grocery stores. I arrive the first day and an orientation leader takes me and another kid on a tour of my town, Rondebosch. We stop in a student travel agency, where 2 South Africans and an American work, so naturally we ask each other home towns, blah, blah, and it turns out she’s from Skaneateles, NY – just the first indication of how small the world is and how much people around the world know about the U.S. (whereas Americans no very little about places like Cape Town).

So I get familiar with town and a little of campus, and later the first night all the orientation leaders (OLs) take groups out on the town to a few local bars. You get some names like Khaya, Lienda, Rudo, Sakwasa, and Thembi but also Tim, Janet, Jamie. We’re all ordering beers and there’s music playing kind of loud and the bartender tells me there’s a special so naturally I’m like sure. I thought it was for the bigger size, 750ml (25oz), but she hands me two of those beasts, and immediately I’m like – damn first night out and I’m the stereotypical American doing Edward 40 hands like Asher Roth or something. fml. But I gave one to an OL, he bought the next round, so I made a friend in the process – actually a Zimbabwean. Everything seems pretty normal, like hitting up the Steer down in Buffalo, with a nice surprise with this French dude busting a move on the dance floor, until the night hits an unexpected turn…


I’m outside of the next bar we go to, talking with a few Mozambicans (they want me to join their soccer team), an Egyptian, and a girl from British Columbia when all of a sudden a police officer is hosing down a local black guy and no one really knows what’s going on. And that’s when it hits you, wow this is Africa. Immediately I get this vision of Birmingham 1963 with state police fire-hosing black protesters in one of the most famous events of the civil rights era. Apparently, the guy was too drunk and the police was either sobering him up or trying to get him leave. Talking with the OLs after it ended, they said they had never seen it before so I didn’t know what to think. The guy getting sprayed was just kinda taking it and eventually started moving over to confront this massive bouncer just asking “Why do you keep spraying me?”. When he gets close enough the bouncer gives him a right hook to the chin, knocking five feet back to the ground, and it broke up from there. I guess that’s just Univ. of Cape Town’s equivalent of “getting’ Steerious”…

To conclude my initial impression I just wanted to note how amazingly similar CT and the U.S. are, but at the same time how strikingly different. It’s got the college town with the close, convenient bars but also the downtown street, Long Street, with tons of clubs and bars. People drink pretty much the same, go out the same, and are listening to “Party Rock is in the house tonight”, Lil Wayne, and even a special treat R. Kelly’s “The World’s Greatest”. They watch American shows (even It’s Always Sunny), movies, music, etc. At the same time, you see barbed wire and bars on windows, advertisements on poles that read “Abortion – call now, Dr. J. Hope 444-5555”, and shantytowns very close to areas that house celebrities like Elton John and David Beckham. Just a very surreal layout of society and culture. Also, I kind of feel like the clueless Asian on U.S. campuses – extremely hard to get used to even small things like crossing the road and buying groceries. Cape Town is amazingly beautiful and pictures can’t justify the colossal mountains, valleys, and ocean-side cliffs all around you. There is plant life everywhere, the air is extremely fresh, and it feels like a comfortable 80 degrees everyday with a nice breeze usually. Anyways that’s enough first impressions for now…I’ll just keep on jibboo’n Africa and write again soon.

2 comments:

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  2. keep the posts coming man. the guy getting hosed is wild, i thought only canadians were hosers. i saw the germany pics and they were pretty awesome. get some pictures with your new peeps too. can't wait for the next update. momma sing sing -dirty dieffster

    p.s. - when did you become such a scholar?

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